In 2007, one of my roommates got Guitar Hero 2 and I was blown away. We spent endless hours playing solo and co-op, as thousands of others have doubtlessly done.
However, one thing annoyed me. Though I preferred to use the tilt sensor (instead of the select button) to launch star power, I found that it was not sensitive enough when sitting down, and too sensitive when standing up. I wanted to fix that. I also thought it would be cool to be able to launch star power with a foot pedal. Around the same time I was also thinking of making a DIY pedal for my keyboards, which are
Kinesis Advantage keyboards, so I sought to combine both endeavours and solve both issues at once.
Though pictures of this build are scarce, and I look back in shame upon the pedal's craftsmanship, I cut myself some slack since this was my first post-graduation electronics project. I scrounged up what few materials I had around, leftovers from some condo destruction, and made shift, as they say.
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My ergonomics-testing station, to see if the selected switch does the job. |
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About to test with a variety of footwear. |
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Up next, sneakers. |
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Sneakers: pass. |
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The classical IKEA makeshift sawhorse. The downstairs neighbours were good about the sawing noise. |
I have no pictures of the completed pedal by itself, so I will skip a head and show a completed picture with the controller:
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Finished product. The far button on the pedal launches star power, and the closer pair allows you to strum with your feet. |
I wired up the electronics with a phone jack in such a way as to be able to use the pedal with both my Kinesis keyboards and the Guitar Hero controller.
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The usual place for a workshop - on top of the dishwasher, between the fruit and the cacti. |
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Male phone jack connects to the pedal. |
While I had the controller open, I unsoldered the tilt sensor from the circuit board, connected it with soft wiring back to the traces on the circuit board, and glued the tilt sensor to the back of a potentiometer I added to the controller face:
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Tilt sensor adjustment. |
In order for the range of potentiometer adjustments to make sense, I modified the pot casing to restrict the available range of motion. This was done by slotting the casing with a cutoff wheel and pushing the notched material inwards, to create a new "stop" for the wiper assembly.
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Notched casing. |
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Another view angle. This notch will be pushed inwards to block the wiper assembly from turning too far. |
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Normal pot, by its disassembled cousin. |
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The notch has been pushed inwards. |
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The new stop. |
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Reassembled potentiometer, now with a bit less than 180 degrees of motion. |
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Final glamour shot. |
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